X-From_: sentto-378640-34473-1067310824-tonyjackson=zetnet.co.uk@returns.groups.yahoo.com Tue Oct 28 03:13:56 2003 X-eGroups-Return: sentto-378640-34473-1067310824-tonyjackson=zetnet.co.uk@returns.groups.yahoo.com X-Sender: sloughds@yahoo.com.au X-Apparently-To: DSeries-L@yahoogroups.com To: DSeries-L@yahoogroups.com User-Agent: eGroups-EW/0.82 From: "Buttercup Bob" X-Originating-IP: 144.138.21.118 X-Yahoo-Profile: sloughds Mailing-List: list DSeries-L@yahoogroups.com; contact DSeries-L-owner@yahoogroups.com Delivered-To: mailing list DSeries-L@yahoogroups.com List-Unsubscribe: Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 03:13:39 -0000 Subject: [DSeries-L] Bob's Engine Stand Reply-To: DSeries-L@yahoogroups.com Hi Deeviates, I've just put 3 pics of my engine stand in the photos section. Under Bobs Field of Dees, Under Bobs Dee tools....... Sorry if its a bit hard to see whats there..... I should paint it a nice workshop safety yellow. The main horizontal axis at the far left of pic 2, is an old landrover front hub. Thus it takes all the overhung weight and is still easy to turn. I assembled this engine in the stand, and found it very good. There's a locknut with handle welded on for each axis, so it can be fixed in any position, even at odd angles. The only reason I didn't tilt the engine for the pics, is that I've already put the oil in it...... I used a hydraulic pump driven by an electric drill to pressurise the oil in through the system via the plug in the left side just rearward of the oil sender. Ability to mount the starter is only prevented because I have used 2 of the starter mount holes for the bracket. The base piece on mine is an old steel wagon tyre (yes, one of those horsedrawn farm wagons used to carry hay, wheat, wool etc about 120 years ago. I've got a few lying around, and they make great bases for various workshop stands. If anyone wants I'll do a roughly dimensioned drawing. Bob >> --- In DSeries-L@yahoogroups.com, Tony Jackson wrote: > ... in the absence of which I puzzled away at what Bob might have done. > > My best solution is in the form of a U, with the block attaching to > it at the upper tips of the U, and a protrusion attached to the base, > making it rather more like a Y. The protrusion being the means by > which the whole is attached to a stand much like the ones one sees > for sale nowadays. So, by rotating about the protrusion any of the > four long faces of the block can but set uppermost. And by rotating > the attachment points at the upper tips of the U the two ends can be > made uppermost, handy for fitting up the clutch or the timing chain. > > I'm surprised that this scheme denies access to the starter motor, > but I'm away from home and can't check. > > The only slight drawback, compared with the Citro‘n scheme, is that > the overhung nature of the load on the stand must introduce a fair > bit of friction, and demands a much stronger structure than is needed > for a simple balanced compression design. The advantage, such as it > is, being that the inlet manifold can be lowered vertically into > position rather than horizontally. > > It would be pleasing if anyone were able to find and measure (and > photograph better than the manual) an example of the Citro‘n/Fenwick > original. > > Best regards, T. > > Tony Jackson, > South Healand, > St Giles in the Wood, > Torrington, > Devon EX38 7JN > UK ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~--> Yahoo! Autos. Everything you need to know about buying or selling a car. FREE Quotes, 360¡ Tours, Research, Blue Book, Compare Vehicles, Buy Used http://us.click.yahoo.com/kEZsdA/bwnGAA/YiGOAA/6jLplB/TM ---------------------------------------------------------------------~-> Shortcut URL to the homepage: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSeries-L If you want to unsubscribe, send a blank message to: DSeries-L-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/